Rockin' Time Zones: The Hottest Rolex, Patek & Co. Watches for Global Gallivanting
- Written by Cat Wißmann
Popular Rolex and Patek Philippe Watch Models Draw the Most Attention - Popular GMT Timepieces: Rolex and Patek Philippe Models in High Demand
In the '50s, Swiss watch kingpin Hans Wilsdorf had a vision: to seal a hefty deal with the up-and-coming Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) by designing a timepiece for dudes who had to bounce across multiple time zones. What if, he thought, a clock could show you both your destination's time and your home time at a glance?
Texting your phone for the time was still a sci-fi dream back then. Existing travel watches were clunky and hard to read, like Patek Philippe's debut Worldtimer "515 HU" from '37. Its dial displayed 24 time zones and city names, but it looked more like a jumble of numbers and letters to pilots. And it wasn't cheap either.
Thanks to Pan Am, the Rolex "GMT-Master" Was Born
Wilsdorf dreamt of a commercial model. It would be based on GMT time, have a second hand, and a 24-hour bezel with red for day and blue for night. Wilsdorf's design impressed Pan Am, and it went into production in '55.
The "GMT-Master" became a hit for Rolex. Not only pilots wanted it, but glamorous jet-setters and those with their eyes on the skies, too. Today, 70 years later, the Rolex model is still among the most coveted and copied watches on the globe. Its price tag? around 11,000 euros.
Catchy Monikers: From Batman to Sprite, Pepsi and Beyond
Because Rolex often switches bezel colors, their nicknames took on lives of their own. The watch with a black-blue bezel is called "Batman," black-green "Sprite." The classic red-blue isn't dubbed "Pan Am," but "Pepsi."
Some collectors are also scooping up lesser-known models. You don't always have to go Rolex: there's the "Spirit Zulu Time" from Longines, launched in '25, and claimed to be the first wristwatch with two time zones. For its 100th anniversary, the brand is unveiling a model with a sapphire backing and rose gold bezel, priced at 4,500 euros.
A bit cheaper (3,940 euros) and surprisingly vibrant is the "Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer" from Nomos. The first world time watch from Glashütte comes in six color combos, each promising to keep your spirits high no matter which time zone you're in.
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The Story Behind the Rolex GMT-Master
The Rolex GMT-Master, first debuted in '54, is a legendary timepiece designed for aviators and globetrotters to conquer multiple time zones. Over the years, it has evolved significantly, with the GMT-Master II series offering even more advanced features. Here's a lowdown on its history, famous models, and significance in travel and aviation:
History of the Rolex GMT-Master:
- '54: The first GMT-Master dropped, designed primarily for Pan Am pilots to keep tabs on various time zones due to the surge in transatlantic flights. It was based on the Ref. 6202 Turn-O-Graph and boasted a distinctive red and blue bezel known as the "Pepsi" design.
- '59: The GMT-Master Ref. 1675 emerged, marking a major evolution in the series, and remained in production until '80.
- '82: The GMT-Master II hit the scene, offering the ability to set the hour hand independently of the minute and second hands, a huge advantage for travelers.
Iconic Models:
- GMT-Master Ref. 6542: nicknamed the "Pussy Galore," it was the first GMT-Master model with a red and blue bezel.
- GMT-Master Ref. 1675: this highly-coveted model is recognized for its toughness and accuracy.
- GMT-Master II Ref. 116710: introduced in '07, this model featured a ceramic bezel, marking a significant development in materials and design.
- GMT-Master II "Pepsi" and "Batman": these models are loved for their unique bezel colors. The "Pepsi" features a red and blue bezel, while the "Batman" dons a black and blue bezel.
Rolex GMT-Master's Impact on Travel and Aviation:
- Navigating Time Zones: The GMT-Master's ability to display multiple time zones proved crucial for pilots navigating transatlantic flights. It assisted pilots in keeping track of both their departure and arrival times.
- Accuracy and Toughness: The watch's precision and rugged construction made it a must-have for both pilots and frequent travelers who needed reliable timekeeping across different time zones.
- Status Symbol: Beyond functional benefits, the GMT-Master has become a status symbol, reflecting the prestige and quality linked with Rolex watches.
- I'm not sure if the evolution of fashion-and-beauty is as intriguing as the development of technology in watches, but it's fascinating to see how some watch models have transcended their original purpose and attained icon status in the realm of fashion.
- For instance, the Rolex GMT-Master, initially designed for pilots, has been adopted by fashion enthusiasts, becoming a symbol of lifestyle for people who appreciate the fusion of technology, design, and luxury.
